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16 sierpnia 2009
Memories from the Winter Expedition by Strzelecki's Track to Mt Kosciuszko
Oscar Kantor. Photo: Oscar Kantor, Mario Szlapak & Puls Polonii

The first Polish winter expedition to Mt Kosciuszko in the footsteps of Paul Edmund Strzelecki was a success! Film maker Oscar Kantor, along with Stefan Lewandowski and Mariusz Szłapak, made it from Geehi Valley across Swampy Plain River, over Hannels Spur via Mt Townsend to Mt Kosciuszko, and ended their historic trek in Charlotte Pass.

Click here to read about the Polish-American summer expedition. A film documenting that expedition was presented in Jindabyne in April 2009, during the 'Kozzie Fest' organised by the Puls Polonii Cultural Foundation.

Click here to watch a sneak preview of Oscar Kantor's documentary From Geehi to Mt Kosciuszko: On the Strzelecki Track (the summer expedition)

Here's the story by Oscar Kantor.

We set out on our Kosciuszko expedition on Friday morning, August 7, starting as usual in the Geehi Valley.While driving from Jindabyne to Geehi, a wild black cat ran across our path. This was a bad luck sign, as it later turned out. The first stage of our expedition was the crossing over Swampy Plain River. This river is much deeper in the winter than it was in summer, reaching up to 1.5 metre of depth.


Mario crossing the icy river


Catch'm quick! Fisherman's boots flying over the river

We crossed it rather easily. Then, we began walking towards a wild forest.There was a heavy rain right from the start and it practically did not stop till the evening. We continued our journey. Soaking wet. Sleeping bags, tents, clothes, video equipment, cameras – all drenched. After struggling 3 kilometres or so, despite very difficult conditions, we decided to set up our camp. It was about 3 PM. Unable to find sufficient space, we were forced to clear a small 3x3-metre plot of land. Dripping wet, we went to sleep at zero temperature.

The next morning we packed up our camp quickly and moved on, hoping for no more rain and a chance to dry our gear over campfire. After a 2-kilometre walk, the sun came out, the snow began to fall and we made the camp right away. With great effort, we built a fire and spent the entire day drying our clothes.There was some singing, as well as campfire stories. The morale of our group was restored.


Geehi Valley. That's where we started off


The snow zone. Not far away from Moiras Flat

On the third day, early Sunday morning, we set out for Byatts Camp. It is a place where the forest ends and the land is slightly easier to cross. The route from Moires Flat to Byats Camp was very hard. Lots of overgrown trees, waist-high snow, temperature below zero – all this delayed our journey even more. It was too early to use snowshoes, so we often sank deep into the snow, carrying 40-kilo backpacks.

Towards the evening we reached Byatts Camp, where we made an igloo and put up our tents between some rocks. Again, we had a campfire with a sing-along and we grilled Polish sausages over the fire. On the fourth day we planned to reach Mount Kosciuszko about noon. However, in order to follow Strzelecki’s track precisely, we chose a path through Mt Townsend and Abotts Peak which, of course, was a detour. And so, we had 3 more kilometres to cross. Nevertheless, climbing Mt Townsend was worth it, as we saw the same view that Strzelecki enjoyed when he climbed Mount Kosciuszko 170 years ago.


Byatts Camp amongst huge rocks


Oscar next to the tent

It got pretty late, so we decided not to climb Mt Kosciuszko on that day.We thoroughly enjoyed sliding down the two-kilometre snowy mountains. Towards the evening we walked past a snow-covered Lake Albina, heading to the Seamans Hut, where we spent the night.The Seamans Hut is an emergency cabin for tourists seeking shelter in the mountains. Tourists like us. There are two tiny rooms and, what is the most important, a fireplace. Our decision not to climb Mt Kosciuszko that day proved to be a smart move. Later that evening a terrible snowstorm broke out and continued over the night.

On the fifth day of our expedition we waited until 10 AM, hoping for the snowstorm to abate. Unfortunately, that was not the case. Despite the poor, about one-metre visibility and the strong wind, we decided to take the risk. We set out for Mount Kosciuszko. The distance between the hut and the mountain is about 3 kilometres. After nearly two hours of slow walking we climbed Mt Kosciuszko around noon.

Click here to can watch a short movie from the summit


Mt Townsend. Strzelecki never saw it covered with snow... We did!


Wind - the great sculptor

However, it was not long before we had another adventure. When we began descending towards Thredbo according to our original plan of return, all hell broke loose. A blizzard, a terrible wind and a complete lack of visibility forced us to dig a small hole in the snow, where we hid for two hours. When the snowstorm ended, we decided to go back to the Seamans Hut. Going to Thredbo was too dangerous. And so, we spent the night (again) in the warmth of Seaman's Hut.

On the sixth day we realized there was no point in going to Thredbo, so we went towards Charlotte Pass. After almost 2 hours of walking in a blizzard and with no visibility at all we reached Charlotte Pass. We used a snow tracked vehicle to get to Perisher Valley. There, we got on an underground railway to Bullock Flat, from where we took a bus to Jindabyne.


Seaman's Hut in the blizzard


Happy to be indoors

After six days and five nights everyone in our group was totally exhausted. During our trip we covered over 40 kilometres. Today, I can say that the first Polish winter expedition to Mount Kosciuszko via Strzelecki’s track was successful. I would also like to mention that people managed to complete this route before only once, in the 1960’s. Our group consisted of three members: Mariusz Szlapak, Stefan Lewandowski, and me – Oscar Kantor. The film, as well as photos from our expedition, will be available during next year’s Kozzie Fest in Jindabyne. Early March. I invite you all. You can watch our photos on my website as well. Go to www.oskipictures.com I would like to take this opportunity and thank the expedition participants: Mariusz – for helping me take photos, and Stefan – for setting up the camp, building the fire, and cooking our meals. Also I would like to thank Mr Steve Darlington from Nationals Parks in Jindabyne, Mr Bruce Easton from Jindabyne’s Wilderness Sports and many thanks to Jindabyne’s Police Station for fine cooperation. In addition, I wish to express my gratitude to Puls Polonii, Ernestyna and Andrzej for their moral and multimedia support during our journey.

OSCAR KANTOR


Time to go home...


... to receive a diploma from the Cultural Foundation of Puls Polonii. From left: Oscar, Asia, Stefan, Ernestyna, Andrzej and Ursula


Diploma of recognition designed by Lukasz Swiatek